Wednesday, September 9, 2009

The last two days couldn't have been a lot more different from the first two if I had planned it out that way.

When we last left our intrepid hero, he had hunkered down in the town of San Luis Obispo. Let me tell you a thing or two about SLO, as the locals bemusedly call it. It's a small town. I don't know how small, but the "downtown" is about 6 blocks by 6 blocks. It's a college town, with one of the 9743 different Cal/Cal State/Cal Tech/Cal whatever university branches. It's also quite lively and I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed it. Nice restaurants, nice bars with live music, and friendly people. If you happen to ever pass by this way, I recommend it very highly.

But on the road I had to get, so I left the fine town behind me headed to Ventura county and my next friend stopover. Along the way I passed through the town of Santa Barbara. I didn't stop for long, but did manage to finally see a Mission, an endeavor at which I had been thwarted in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

I'm told this is the only mission to have 2 bell towers. I feel honored. I read up on the history of missions while I was here; it's quite interesting. Evidently most of them were founded in the 1700s. Spain, which had an established colonial frontier in Mexico, was worried about encroachment by the Russians from the north. So they cooked up a scheme that involved the government, the army, and the church. And just like Hart to Hart, when they got together, it was murder. The army and the government would set up military bases (Presidios) up the coast from Mexico. At each one there would be some government services available, and the church would set up a mission. In this way, Spain sought to set up a 'buffer zone' of Spanish culture that would keep the Russians at bay. The missionaries were charged with the usual missionary responsibilities, but were also deemed to be "protectors of the Indians." From time to time, evidently, this brought them into conflict with the military, who sometimes saw the Indians as simple nuisances. How Spanish culture was going to take root without these nuisances evidently was not thought through all that carefully.

I'm not a religious man. In fact, sometimes its all I can manage to not be sacrilegious. But I have to admire the missionaries after a fashion. Here are people who give up everything to spend their lives on a foreign frontier because they are pursuing a vision. A twisted vision sometimes, to be sure. They were able to figure out what they needed to do, and pursued it no doubt with zeal. Now there are statues of them, and nifty old buildings they built. All in all, I think that's worth something.

Anyway, the plan worked in that no towns in California have Russian names. While the battle may have been won, the war was lost. Spain couldn't deal with the independence movement of her Mexican colony, and the independent state of Mexico couldn't deal with it's grabby northern neighbor. One treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo later, and California was born. Fifty years later, one of the most corrupt politicians of all time, Porfirio Diaz, president of Mexico issued one of my favorite quotes, "Poor Mexico...so far from God, so close to the United States."

But enough history appreciation day. I had to move onto the real object of the day, my friend Vicky Chia. Vicky is a friend of mine from Seattle. I met her a few years through a mutual friend when she was still in her doctoral program at UW. Since meeting her, she has finished her doctoral degree to become an epidemiologist, moved to Maryland to do her post-doc work, and now moved to Thousand Oaks to work for Amgen. Everything you hear about the healthcare debate will impinge on her somehow. So think about that.

I really wanted to see the beaches of Southern California, so Vicky and I spent the day cruising around Malibu. I had thought the crush of humans in Carmel on Sunday was impressive. I hadn't seen anything yet. Armies were clustered on the beaches on Labor Day itself. In southern California, there are miles-long stretches of highway where people pull their cars off to the side of the highway and abandon them to go down to the beach. I can think of nowhere else that I have seen this kind of behavior. Then again, I can think of nowhere else where one would want to.



Vicky has just bought a new townhouse in Thousand Oaks. It's very nice. And it's a good time to be a buyer in SoCal.


The next day bright and early I headed down to Orange County to visit my long time friend and business associate, Gerry Rubin, along with his wife Sofia and his new boy Teddy.

Rubin is one of the owners of Sitelines productions. He's a great events guy, and a huge WWII history buff. A few years back I went on a tour of the Normandy beaches with him, just because. So what do Gerry and I do? We go out into the California desert to shoot his collection of WWII era and WWII replica guns!

Gerry has an M1 .30 carbine, a model 1911 .45 colt automatic, and a Lee-Enfield .303 bolt action. The former two are modern replicas built to specs. The latter is actual WWII vintage, 70 years old, and well used. The Lee-Enfield packs quite a kick, trust me. Persoanlly I had the most fun with the carbine. It was lighter weight and I found I was more accurate with it, hitting 7 out of 10 targets on one mag. Go me!



































Driving out to the desert we passed up a few houses out there. I mean way out there. Every time I go by isolated outposts of habitation like this, it makes me wonder who these folks are. What do they do? What do they want? Why are they here? And how did they decide that living 2 hours from other humans was they way to achieve their desires? Mind you, I'm not judgmental about this in the slightest. I'm merely curious. Somehow though I managed to resist the urge to ring one of their doorbells and ask them. Most of them have gates, so that might not be a good idea anyway.

Later in the evening we drove around in Gerry's rebuilt WWII Ford jeep. I'm not kidding.















I could pretty much hang out here for days, but my own kind of duty calls. Next up, I head east for the first really isolated stretch of the trip. Target: the Grand Canyon.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

It was a much more leisurely day. It was also a day of personal firsts. While I had been to the bay area many times, and to So Cal a few times, I had never been to the stretch in between at all. Therefore, my road trip foray into truly unexplored territory began first thing in the morning. The immediate question was what route to take.

I remembered an aquiantance from my college days; a guy named Clay Reynolds. Clay was a first year student in my incoming class. I never really got to know him all that well, but I remembered that he was from Salinas. I think he might have been the first Californian I ever met. So when I saw a highway sign on 101 pointing out the route to Salinas, that was good enough for me.

It was as good a route as any other: but the truth is that Salinas isn't really a tourist destination. It seems to be a fairly major agricultural town about an hour south of the bay. I stopped for coffee and gas. It does have this going for it: it's hot, as are all the big farming towns in California. But it's more-or-less open to Pacific breezes, with no pesky mountain ranges to block the wind. So you get this odd effect of high 90s temperatures broken frequently by nearly AC level bursts of cool air. Here's what Salinas looks like at 70mph while I'm enjoying one of those bursts of cool air. There was another upside: Salinas is the birthplace of John Steinbeck, who happens to be one of my favorite authors. So now I can say I've done that.

Salinas was the waypoint, the goal was the beautiful bayside tourist destination of Monterey. Steinbeck wrote one of his really famous novels, Cannery Row, about this town. Back in the days it was sort of the epicenter of the sardine processing industry in the whole Pacific US. Now we kind of snicker when we think about sardines.

A crush of humanity has descended on the towns surrounding the Monterey Bay for Labor Day weekend, so the traffic was intolerable. But after a frustrating bout with it, and a delicious kebab lunch at a local Persian place, I did a tour of the waterfront and the old cannery row.














The only thing they net for cannery rown any more is tourists. The local signage all says the sardine population was overfished. I dunno...I wonder if we just didn't all collectively decide we like fresh fish better.

Monterey is also big for wildlife, with the marine wildlife getting top billing. Consider, for example, this harbor seal. Note also the less well regarded harbor squirrel, who must console his sense of rejection with the lovely nut he found to munch on while I took his picture.

South of Monterey is the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, perhaps the only town outside of England to have a snooty hyphenated name. Once upon a time Clint Eastwood was mayor here. My Lonely Planet USA guide says that if you see only one Mission in California, you should see this one. So I tried to. But I couldn't find parking so I gave up. See my previous comment about the crush of humanity. But they seem to have a nice beach, anyway.

But I was eager to get on with the real objective of the day. The Pacific Coast Highway has been a source of intrigue to me for years. Finally, it had all come together. I had the time to enjoy it, the car to drive, and the perfect top down weather. There aren't really enough superlatives available in the English language for this drive. Each hairpin turn of the twisty road opens up new vistas, seemingly more mind-boggling and scenic than the last. Here's a small sample, I'll post more on Facebook, which is better at dealing with photos than this blog is.

It actually presented an interesting problem. The PCH is very windy and fairly slow. It takes a pretty long while to drive it's length. This only gets longer if you actually stop to admire every breathtaking view. After the 20th one or so, you might start to get jaded. And you certainly won't get to wherever you're heading on time even if you don't. I eventually made a deal with myself: after stopping at one overlook, I would stop at another until the surrounding terrain (the hills, cliff faces, and landmarks) had actually changed and the old ones were no longer visible. It occurred to me that a lifetime of experiencing every possible vista might well be a life well-lived. But it's not the life for me. I want to get this gist of the great things, and them move on.

Moving on, in my case today, was the my current stopping point of San Luis Obispo. A small but very pleasant little town that sort of marks the northernmost outpost of Southern California. I met a nice couple in a restaurant here, Lee and David. She's from New Zealand, he's from England. They live in Brisbane now, but they have just begun a two week vacation that will take them up to Yosemite. We compared roadtrip notes. I'll be out longer, but they have further to go in order to get home. A lovely conversation was had with two perfect strangers. I hope that there are many more such encounters waiting for me the rest of the way.

Tomorrow: Ventura county in the sunshine

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Obstacles, setbacks, and bad philosophy

California doesn't like to make it easy for visitors. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Six in the morning seemed like a good target hour to be on the road. I made it with one minute to spare. I had dinner reservations in San Fran at 8. It's a happy coincidence, and not any indication of meticulous planning on my part, that I almost made that.

I was kind of looking forward to watching the sun rise to start the trip. Unfortunately, the first shots of the rainy season may have started landing in the Pac NW the day I blew out of town. There was a solid gray roof with moderate to heavy rain all the way down to southern Oregon. It's actually impressive to think about how large a chunk of geography was actually one big rainstorm. When I'm sitting at home, I don't think about the extent of the weather. It's just that it's raining where _I'm at._ Traveling all through it gives one a unique perspective.

Around Grant's Pass, Oregon a strange thing happens. Fir trees and ferns give way to fir trees and scrub brush. And more-or-less just like that...the rain stops. Welcome to California.














North from Grant's Pass. Note ominous clouds


Contrast with southerly shot...and blue skies

As I had just done a long road trip through Oregon and Northern California as far south as San Francisco with my friends Marc and Viet in April, I decided to have my first day be a fairly brutal straight shot through to the bay. My leisurely road trip would start when I headed south from there. Accordingly I blazed quickly through the Mt. Shasta area of the northern Sierras. I did stop long enough to take this shot of the volcanic sentinel of the Golden State's northern border


Unfortunately, my hell-bent-for-leather approach to the opening leg of the journey shortly thereafter attracted another kind of California sentinel, in the person of a helpful California Highway Patrolman. See, evidently they have these planes.... You can guess the rest. They nabbed about four motorists in what I can only describe as a well-coordinated and highly proficient speed trap. Or maybe "speed sting" would be a more charitable term, since I was in fact hauling derriere. The ticketing transaction was painless as these things go, very business-like. And my own CHiP looked like he could have been somebody's grandfather. Only he had a rocket-powered super high-tech interceptor car that I'm pretty sure could launch rockets and control the broadcast of an NFL game based on the number of antennae the thing had.

I should have asked him if I could take his picture. Maybe best I didn't...could be awkward. You'll have to imagine him. Think Willford Brimley only 75 lbs. lighter.

Anyhoo, I'm not going to let a minor infraction and bill to the great state of California deter me! So I push on. The northern valley is a great and fertile wasteland. Fertile in the sense that there's all kinds of agri-business. A wasteland in the sense that I don't want to spend any more of my time there. It's a necessary terrain that separates the bay area from the Northwest.

Approaching my target, I had to plan an alternate route. Seems California's second impediment to easy visitation today is that the Bay Bridge is closed for Labor Day weekend. Probably a good choice of timing...it's not like a big travel weekend or anything. It's ok. I got to take a route I've never taken, across the 580 bridge to get to Mill Valley, then down across the Golden Gate. This added some hassle, and some extra tolls.

They only charge you toll going in to San Francisco. They don't care when you leave. If you could spend your whole life only driving north, you'd be golden. I can't decide if I like what this is saying. Maybe it should be like putting deposits on bottles. They could charge you a toll to get into the city, but then pay you to leave. I could get behind that approach more easily.

I made it to my dinner engagement with old WotC friends Andrew and Robert and Andrew's wife Rachel. I was about 40 minutes late, but I'm fortunate to have friends of the patient variety. We had a fine dinner at a nice Brazilian steak place on Market St. Robert lost the credit card game. Or maybe I won, I can never tell with that game. I'm typing this entry from a Best Western in South San Francisco, resting up for my first easy drive tomorrow, down through Monterrey to Southern California.

All in all a fine first day. It makes me wonder if I missed something, though. Was I supposed to rush through the first day? I want to do new things, not repeat the same things, to be sure. And my time, while open ended, is not infinite. But then again, who am I to try to define when the "real" journey begins? Did I plow past something that could have been important, could have given me some kind of satisfaction? How much am I supposed to be in control of the journey, and how much am I just supposed to have the journey happen?

I should have asked Wilford. He looked as if he might have had some wisdom to hazard an answer.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Plan for day one

I'm spending my last night in Seattle quietly. I spent the day getting ready, had some drinks in the early evening with friends, and the rest of the night hanging out with my home base support crew (aka Greg Collins) and preparing this blog.

In less than 24 hours I'll be enjoying my first stop, having dinner in SF with some old friends from the good 'old days at Wizards. Planning to make a brief stop around Shasta for some pics. Check back whenever you feel the need to travel vicariously!

Put me on a highway...

...and show me a sign

Lots of people responded to my facebook post calling for suggestions for my roadtrip soundtrack. I'd like to specifically thank Andy Collins, Zoe Baum, Monty Ashley, Linae Foster, Marty Durham, Brice Rheinhardt-Beltran for contributions that fit in very nicely. I spent a good chunk of this morning finishing the soundtrack with these suggestions and a fair piece of my own imagining. Some are simply road songs. Some are more in-line with the greater meaning of this trip for me. Or at least what I hope the greater meaning turns out to be. Some of you have DJ sensibilities...no apologies on that front. For those who have an expressed an interest, here's the whole enchilada.

Movin' Right Along - the Muppets and cast of Sesame Street
King of the Road - Roger Miller
East Bound and Down - Jerry Reed
On the Road Again - Willie Nelson
I've Been Everywhere - Johnny Cash
Changes in Lattitudes - Jimmy Buffett
Friend of the Devil - Grateful Dead
"I lit up from Reno I was trailed by twenty hounds..."
Many Rivers to Cross - Jimmy Cliff
Sweet Home Chicago - Robert Johnson
A Change Is Gonna Come - Sam Cooke
Take It To the Limit - Eagles
Coyote - Joni Mitchell
"Either he's gonna have to stand and fight, or take off outta here..."
I've Been to Memphis - Lyle Lovett
Redemption Song - Bob Marley and the Wailers
Further On Up the Road - Eric Clapton and The Band
Mystery Train - Elvis Presley
Already Gone - Eagles
"So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains, and we never even know we have the key..."
Peter Gunn - Henry Mancini
Route 66 - The Brian Setzer Orchestra
Road Hog - The Coctails
Slow Ride - Foghat
Road to Nowhere - Talking Heads
My Life - Billy Joel
Thumbelina - Pretenders
"We left the snowstorms and the thunder and rain/for the desert sun, we're gonna be born again"
Going to California - Led Zeppelin
Soak Up The Sun - Sheryl Crow
Low Rider - War
Graceland - Paul Simon
"My traveling companions are ghosts and empty sockets..."
(Don't Go Back To) Rockville - R.E.M.
Roam - The B-52's
Crawling to the USA - Elvis Costello
Good Excuse - The John Butler Trio
The Breakdown - Los Lobos
Locomotive Breath - Jethro Tull
Stickshifts and Safety Belts - Cake
Cadillac Boogie - Mighty Blue Kings
Circle Around the Sun - Poi Dog Pondering
Ramble On - Led Zeppelin
Stand - R.E.M.
I Wish - Stevie Wonder
Take the Long Way Home - Supertramp
When Problems Arise - Fishbone
The Distance - Cake
American Music - Violent Femmes
Uncontrollable Urge - Devo
Lust for Life - Iggy Pop
I'm Shipping Up to Boston - Dropkick Murphys
Runnin' Down a Dream - Tom Petty
Lido Shuffle - Boz Scaggs
Brand New Cadillac - The Clash
Bohemian Rhapsedy - Queen
The Boys of Summer - The Ataris
"Out on the road today I saw a Black Flag sticker on a cadillac..."
Everybody's Happy Nowadays - The Buzzcocks
No Sleep 'til Brooklyn - The Beastie Boys

Wish me luck, everyone